
I was surprised by a headline, on
an EFE article on the
Latin American Herald Tribune, implying that in addition to mighty
Google and
Hillary Clinton, little Costa Rica is also standing up to China these days. Turns out, a major presidential candidate, Ottón Solís, from the left-wing Partido Acción Ciudadana (PAC), has promised to name a 35,000-seat, $83 million stadium, a gift from the People's Republic of China, after China's favorite hobgoblin, the Dalai Lama.
The stadium is a little thank-you present from China recognizing Costa Rica's decision, in 2007, to break ties with Taiwan. Naming it after the Dalai Lama, the Chinese Foreign Ministry says, "is not in line with the common desires of the two countries."
Solís is not expected to win next month's election. (Laura Chinchilla, of President Óscar Arias's governing centrist Partido Liberación Nacional, is the favorite.) But for a serious candidate to cross China is still surprising, given the red carpet treatment that China gets in most of Latin America. In fact, in November, traveling in
San José, capital of one of the world's most democratic and environmentally progressive countries, I did not hear a single criticism of China, one of the world's most environmentally destructive and authoritarian countries. "
Los Chinos," the political analyst Constantino Urcuyo told me bluntly, "
son Santa Claus." René Castro, Chinchilla's
jefe de campaña, is similarly unperturbed by what seem to be clashing values between Costa Rica and China. The proposed Free Trade Agreement, he told me, is a "non-issue" in the campaign. By separating human rights and economic issues, he said, "we're copying the United States." To Doris Osterlof, chairwoman of the China and Singapore Committee of the Camara de Exportadores de Costa Rica, closer ties to China are simply "logical." In early November,
The Economist Intelligence Unit reports, Costa Rica and China concluded the fifth and penultimate round of talks on the proposed FTA.

By and large, U.S. diplomats have come to accept a bigger role for China in the hemisphere. At
a panel discussion on Friday at the
Woodrow Wilson International Center for Scholars, U.S. Ambassador to Brazil Thomas A. Shannon acknowledged the "globalization of many of our partners in the hemisphere," saying it was "something we can adapt to." The ambassador to Chile, Paul Simons, even stumbled upon a silver lining, saying Chinese demand for Chilean copper means higher production and greater demand for U.S.-produced mining equipment. Last May, Sec. Clinton said the growing influence of Iran and China in Latin America is "
quite disturbing," but last month,
she clarified that the U.S. has "no problem with any country, such as China, engaging in economic activities, business, commerce with any country anywhere."

That grudging acceptance reflects the reality that the expansion of China in America's "backyard" is not likely to abate.
The Chinese Foreign Ministry recently announced
that the Argentine president, Cristina Kirchner, is paying a state visit to China on Monday. Meanwhile, at Friday's panel, the U.S. ambassador to Paraguay, Liliana Ayalde, said the
election of President Fernando Lugo means that Paraguay's relations to Taiwan are "currently being reassessed." Still, for the U.S., it is becoming increasingly clear that the conflict between China's behavior and America's core values is jeopardizing U.S.-Sino relations despite President Obama's best efforts to improve ties (an "astonishingly naive" strategy that
the Heritage Foundation defines as "a refusal to take an aggressive stand against despotism"). I wonder, as Latin American nations realize that Chinese investments are primarily in extractive industries and often involve imported Chinese labor, whether Costa Rica's Ottón Solís will be the only one in the region not kowtowing to Beijing.
Photos of the new stadium in Costa Rica, a statue of the Costa Rican rana roja and a Costa Rican tamale by Benjamin N. Gedan.